08/05/2016

Ethical fashion

 

How sustainable is the sustainable fashion industry?

Abhilasha Rayamajhi
Kathmandu
 Fashion and textiles industry is the most polluting industry in the world after oil. Research shows that it can take more than 20,000 litres of water to produce one kg of cotton which is equivalent to a single t- shirt and a pair of jeans. With growth in environmentalism sustainable fashion industry has garnered attention around the globe. Educated and conscious consumers are now concerned about unethical practices in the fashion industry.
The trend of sustainable fashion has also entered Nepal. However, it is not within the reach of the common man and is limited to a niche market. Affordability, limited product range, lack of awareness and access are some of the hurdles it faces. However, sustainable fashion enthusiasts strongly believe that their products are here to stay and make a difference in the world.
Unaware customers “ The definition of sustainable in Nepal is quite vague. It is only associated with durability of the product but sustainability is also making a long term social impact,” says Mingma Diki Sherpa, Founder of Paila. She adds, “ Everyone has the responsibility to reduce their carbon footprint and natural products help. This is the true essence of sustainability.” She says that this is the right time to invest in products that are environment friendly and ethically produced.
Bini Bajracharya, Production Manager at Sabah Nepal shares, “ People are not aware of the benefits of sustainable fashion.
However, we are gradually working on branding and raising awareness about local material like alloo .” Sabah recently became a major partner of the Kailash Sacred Landscape Conservation and Development Initiative in Nepal.
The programme aims to promote sustainable fashion through various awareness programmes.
Affordability issues About the affordability of sustainable products, Theresa Bastrup Hasman, Country Coordinator of Fashion Revolution Nepal, says, “ I don’t think sustainable suppliers as a whole are expensive.
However, we do need to look at the real cost of manufacturing.” She adds, “ If we don’t want people to work in slave- like conditions, we want them to have a pay on which they can feed their families and educate their children and through that build a better future for the entire country.” According to her it is true that the prices should be competitive, in order for the industry to be commercially competitive, but prices also need to be realistic.
Otherwise the human cost is too high and certainly not something found acceptable in 2016.
Bajrachaya feels cost minimisation strategies are needed. She says, “ We have products like body scrubs which only starts from Rs 150.” Further, they have plans to mix alloo with cotton in order to reduce the price of the products.
Limited resources Since raw materials for sustainable attire are naturally grown it is limited in nature. Further, it takes gradual step by step procedure to manufacture the final product, says Bajracharya.
According to her there are only limited people who are skilled enough to practice the local craft that goes into producing sustainable clothing.
The other challenge is the lack of consistent water supply.
“ Water is critical in any production, but today the industry is in many places polluting rivers across Asia with chemicals.
Although sustainable producers work with dye houses for which purification is taking place, they still need regular supply of water to run efficiently,” explains Hasman. Another big challenge is power supply which makes it very difficult to plan an efficient and reliable production line. This directly results in delivery windows being missed.
Finally, to market sustainable products requires investment and trade. “ Not enough is being done to showcase the excellent transparent producers we have here in Nepal. This is the key for Nepal if we are serious about building a healthy industry. For this we need government and international support,” she concludes.
(The Printed Version of this article was published on The Himalayan Times- Perspectives on May 8, 2016)

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